[#AmaDablamTour, Day 9] Pheriche

Internet connection has been nada since we left Namche Bazaar three days ago. So I am only able to post again now. Ncell's mobile data service is said to resume in Gorak Shep, which is two days away. Another problem is battery power of all our gadgets. Charging and wifi rates are ever increasing as we get closer to the base camp. Technology really brings both convenience and hassle to a connected expedition.

Here's what has happened so far:

Day 7 - We headed out for Tengboche (3875masl), but not before saying goodbye to Krista and Adrian, whose tour ends here. They are headed to Lukla, then the Philippines.  It was a long hike day with significant elevation loss and gain, as Tengboche is separated from Namnche by a river. It was a slog up the final slope and by the time everyone got there, it was already overcast and cold. The visit inside the monastery was the highlight of the hike. We stayed in Daboche, which was about 20 minutes further down.

Day 8 - First time we had morning frost. Another member of our team, Mark, was headed home. We were still convincing him to come all the way to EBC the night before. He said he'll be back next year.

From Daboche, we hiked up to Pangboche (3890masl). A river also runs between the two villages, which means another long descent and climb. Ama Dablam towers over the landscape; making it more intimidating than Mt. Everest, which is far off in the distance. Lunch was at Shomare, another village about 30 minutes away. Our final stop is Pheriche (4250masl), another 1.5-hour hike through a desolate landscape. From here, the land becomes bleaker and bleaker; less vegetation, and more rock and ice. Good thing we're billeted in one of the "classier" lodges. It was the first time in days that we heard actual music playing. The innkeeper was into clasic rock so it was Led Zeppelin, the Beatles, Queen, who were accompanying us during dinner.

Having to stay here for two nights, I finally got to wash my dirty towel and smelly socks.

Day 9 - The drier air in this place is giving me problems while sleeping. The wet towel method was only partly successful, and I was waking up almost hourly. One side effect of thinner atmosphere is the vivid dreams we were all having. I was quite happy that most nights my dream involved Celina, who I'm missing so much. (I also sort of had a nightmare back in Namche, but I don't want to dwell on that).

It was another acclimatization day. Our target was the "summit" of Nankerzong,  which is said to be 5500masl, or nearly the height of Kala Patthar (which it turns out, also has nearly the same features). The difference is, we are starting at 4250masl, which means a whopping 1.25 vertical kilometers in elevation gain. 

The slog started through the trail up to Dingboche (separated from Pheriche by a small ridge). Then the trail follows the main ridge that just goes up and up. The wind was bitter cold this morning, even when the sun was in full blast. It made it hard for.my body to adjust, was I warm or freezing? I was maintaining my own pace, like the others, and soon our gap was widening. I hesitated to stop and wait for the others because it was really cold. The final stretch became a struggle, stopping to breathe hard for every 4 steps. The high point wad a boulder pile that overlooks the high peaks on the east, Lhotse, Island Peak, Makalu, and others. Ama Dablam looms on the south, as if to check us out if we're worthy to climb her. Soon Miko arrived. After a while Henry. It became obvious that no one else from  our team will follow, so we descended an hour after I got there. What took more than 2.5 hours to climb was less than an hour to descend. I stopped from running after Miko; reminding myself we still had a long trip ahead of us, and it's foolish to get injured from racing along the trail.

The day ends with me nursing a slight headache; actual cause unknown (probably from the exhaustion).

Tomorrow we head for Lobuche. We are psyching ourselves up to prepare for the more depressing landscapes ahead.

(More photos at https://www.facebook.com/trailgoesonblog/)